I'm writing this sitting outside in one of the courtyards at Trinity College, in Dublin. My bit of exploring of the city is done, halted by the inevitable 5:00 closure of all things visitable besides restaurants and pubs. I got into the city via train around 1:15, decided to walk to my hostel rather than bus, arrived 45 minutes later, took a few minutes to breathe, and set out. I found the tourist office first (a.k.a. my home away from home), browsed the brochures, and then got directions to the nearest grocery store to find food for the next day and a half. Grocery stores are still a little rough for me, given that I don't understand what 3/4 of the things are, and I'm constantly getting knocked sideways by rampant carts running into my backpack. (Even though I only carry my school-sized backpack when I'm actually out in cities, it sticks out awkwardly behind me everywhere I go. Particularly in narrow grocery store aisles. Arrrgh.)
Anyway. I braved the grocery store and emerged victorious with apples, "carrot batons" (carrot sticks), whole-wheat soda bread, pumpkin seeds (unfortunately pretty gross), some unknown flavor of yogurt (turned out to be plain), some foreign version of Fig Newtons (except for these are WAY better than Fig Newtons), and some random chocolate bar. I was really proud of myself.
I was still debating at this point whether to pay the €8 entrance fee to see the Book of Kells. Unfortunately, I didn't change enough of my pounds to Euros upon entry into Ireland, so I have way more of the former at this point, which aren't doing me any good. So I decided against the Book of Kells. Sorry, O Illuminated Manuscript. Instead, I wandered in the general direction of the Chester Beatty Library, this free collection of historical objects including lots and lots of religious documents. Unfortunately, I did not find it. Instead, though, I stumbled upon Christ Church Cathedral, the biggest cathedral in Dublin or something. Anyway, it was only €3 for students and I really really like cathedrals, so I went in. This was unfortunately much more like a museum than a place of worship - other cathedrals I've visited have at least maintained a generally reverent atmosphere. It made me sad. But I sat down to pray anyway. Then I went down to the CRYPT!!! It was very cool - it ran the entire length of the cathedral, so it was filled with pillars that hold up the entire building. The crypt holds all the cathedral's collection of artifacts, all of which were very interesting. (There was an old document that was an inventory of the cathedral's relics, claiming that they had a "few drops of the milk of the Virgin Mary". ...um WHAT?? Anyway, I didn't see that anywhere...) So then I had a cup of tea in the "Foxy Friars Cafe" (*eye roll*), and walked upstairs to realize that the choir singing I'd been hearing in the background for a while wasn't a CD, it was the cathedral choir practicing! So of course I sat to watch. The cathedral had mostly cleared of visitors at that point, so it was like a private recital for me and the two other people who cautiously sat to watch as well. It was really beautiful - all the harmonies, consonant as well as hauntingly dissonant, just soar into the arches of those buildings. I love it.
Awesome side note: the choirs of Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick's Cathedral, also in Dublin, made up the first choir to perform Handel's Messiah, in a building just up the street from the cathedral. How cool is that??
So finally I left, and meandered my way over to Trinity, and now I'm sitting less than a hundred yards probably from the Book of Kells, somewhere in the building at my back. Plan for the remainder of the evening is undecided. Tomorrow I train to Belfast, ferry to Stranraer, Scotland, and bus to Edinburgh. I'm so sad that my touring is nearly over! But I've had an incredible time, and I'm very much ready to have my own living space again. I'm also very excited to have the rest of my clothes back. And I can't wait to sit down and re-read everything I've written thus far. What a two weeks.
I forgot to talk about yesterday at all! Brief overview, then. It was my biggest touristy day yet - I took a guided tour bus around Burren National Park, to the Cliffs of Moher and several very interesting historical sites. It's so funny - whereas in the US "historical" would probably mean 1850-ish, here "historical" means the Bronze Age. Haha. We saw an ancient tomb as well as a circular fort. So that was really neat. The Cliffs of Moher were, of course, beautiful - Google them if you can't wait for my pictures to go up. (The Google pictures are probably better anyway, sadly.) It was great to get out of Limerick and see the Ireland that they show you on postcards. Absolutely stunningly beautiful. We had lunch in a village called Doolin, which was basically a single road with a pub and some folk shops, but which also boasted the "last music cafe until America". I'm still not quite clear on what a music cafe is, but whatever. Had deliciously local seafood chowder in the pub (with this rather smug Canadian dude also on my tour - he was a character) and glanced through the adorable shops. Delightful. So. As soon as I go through the 400-ish pictures currently on my camera, 200 of which are from yesterday alone, you'll be able to see them on Facebook.
Lots and lots of love! I miss you all incredibly.
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